21 October 2023

Cavorting by the Rivers: Montevideo's Open Spaces

Montevideo is not a pretty city. In fact, in some areas, it might even look ugly, to the point that it is deceptively dangerous. Mind you, Montevideo is not a dangerous city, it definitely does not follow the stereotype of a dangerous South American city, yet sometimes, there are areas where it looks like it is. Eventually I realised that the "dangerous look" is more because it was a weekend and therefore the area was deserted, but come one day after during the weekday and everyone is up and about, and the area totally feels safe. In any case, there are interesting open spaces that is worth taking a look at, and here are a few of them.

Of course, since Montevideo is a city by the sea (or river, if you insist), then there is the waterfront. There is a very long rambla that people use to exercise, stroll, party, what have you. I checked it out several times.
I have walked this waterfront promenade several times, and it is actually a very long street, at about 22 kilometres. It is a great place to watch people doing their thing, from cycling to exercising, to sipping mate to flirting.
Of course, I should also highlight the Plaza Independencia, together with the Palacio Salvo. Both can be seen in the photos above. This area is essentially the city's main square. In the centre is the mausoleum for José Gervasio Artigas, who is Uruguay's national hero. There is a possibility to visit the top floors of the Palacio Salvo, yet at that time I decided to skip it as I was enjoying more activities on the ground.
On the eastern side of the city, there is the Parque Jose Enrique Rodó. I ended up here in one of my long walks. It is a very leafy place, with plenty of sculptures and monuments. Jose Enrique Rodó was an important writer, whose monument you can see in the photos above.

Montevideo is perhaps not the sexiest city (unlike Buenos Aires, but more of that later), but it was real and alive. It almost feels like the residents know that there are more beautiful cities beyond their hometown, yet so what? Just leave us alone. Montevideo's charm is on its people, and as I was strolling its wide open spaces, I definitely felt that it was the case.